How to wear the non-suit

This coming autumn/winter season, we will mostly be wearing something that is almost a suit, but isn’t really a suit. With a nod to sportswear, or a hint at work wear, or even a step in the direction of prison garb, surgeon’s scrubs or just straight-up quadruple denims – the non-suit is basically do what you love, as long as it covers you head-to-toe.

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Designers have shown they are catching up with a world in which wearing a suit to work is a fashion choice and not an economic necessity. In a watershed moment for menswear, this London Fashion Week Men’s was all about unconventional suits for the gentleman who loves to match, but perhaps doesn’t exactly have to.

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Twisted traditions

It wasn’t all shell-suits and space-suits, so if you want to be more conventional, try adding a subtle twist. Todd Lynn showed us that sticking to monochrome – as in, black and white with the odd grey if you’re feeling cheeky – is the more traditional man’s approach to the non-suit. Likewise, go for sharp contrast for that bold feel.

Try matching sleek Farah shirts which contrast to a suit you’ve already got – especially if you’ve already got a white suit, match it with a black Farah shirt for seasonal perfection

Suit yourself

If you’ve got no fashion boundaries, just match your favourite things to each other and cover yourself in them. Kind of like fractal favourites. Nigel Cabourn gave us military chic, so feel free to pair your summer cargo shorts with a nice high sock and khaki shirt and the dog-tag necklace you’re lucky enough to have held onto from 2003. If it’s your inner court-jester you’re seeking to unleash, you’re welcome to follow Sibling in grabbing everything patterned you have in one bold colour and just wear it at once, whatever the occasion it was intended for –

Maybe you still love sportswear and you’re ready to look even sharper in your favourite pieces. No worries – Xander Zhou demonstrated with winning pride that sport is only getting sleeker. Opt for sporty classics with more considered tailoring and clear-cut shapes. And, as Astrid Anderson made perfectly clear, your super-sharp sport-suit can go up three sizes without losing its edge, so long as it’s all one colour of course.